Lambson is reacting to the on-going microbead trend being seen in Europe and the world with the development of a patent-pending core-shell microencapsulation technology using entirely vegetarian food grade ingredients.
Marketed under the Vida-Caps name, and part of the Invo-Caps portfolio of encapsulation technologies, this latest innovation expands the well-known benefits of gelatine based core-shell (complex coacervate) systems into an entirely animal free formulation.

“When it comes to complex coacervation, this has been used for a while, so in itself is nothing new. But the capsule wall uses gelatine, which can be a sticking point to many as it is animal-derived,” says Jon Virgoe, Business Development Director at Lambson.

“We know how much this method is used though as it is one of the true microencapsulation techniques, so this is an exciting development as it is non-animal derived and also overcomes issues related to religious or cultural restrictions,” he tells CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.

The new alternative is extracted from fungus and purified and is used as the gelatine replacement as one of the capsule wall materials used in complex coacervation.

Microencapsulation

Complex coacervation is the attraction of oppositely charged colloids and sis used as a microencapsulation technique as it is versatile, can define break strength of a formulation, and can be designed for specific applications.

Microencapsulation is used as it isolates and stabilises materials and controls the release of the encapsulated material.

Virgoe explains that given the current trend in cosmetics towards removing and replacing microbeads commonly used in products, such as face scrubs, microencapsulation becomes a viable alternative.

Plastic microbead alternative

There are many natural alternatives already, such as the likes of silica through to ground up nut shells, fruit seeds; and Lambson believes microencapsulation can enhance the offering even further.

“Encapsulation enables a formulator to encase the exfoliants in microbeads which can then be coloured to make them more uniform and aesthetically pleasant,” says Virgoe.

“On use the beads rub away to release the exfoliant, to give the exfoliation benefit and the benefits of the carrier oil.”

Microencapsulation can be used to encapsulate a wide variety of inner phases, usually oils or oil-soluble ingredients, but there are techniques available, or in development, to enable some aqueous inner phases to be encapsulated.

Lambson’s offering is due for a roll-out this summer and bespoke options will also be available.

Cosmetics Design - Europe, (23/02/2016)