Getting the sensorial qualities of a skin care product just right is make or break, which is why ingredients provider Evonik has developed its Sensory Kaleidoscope tool.

It relies on a sensory map, which has been developed as an interactive tool specifically developed to help find the exact sensory qualities by establishing the best emulsifier for the job.

Evonik carries a broad spectrum of emulsifiers that have been developed to achieve specific formulation requirements, and the developers behind the tool say it can help evaluate the correct sensory attributes using detailed statistical analysis.

Ultimately the tool can help turn the latest sensory trends and desired skin feel into new products, the developers say.

How it works…

"Sensory kaleidoscope visualizes how certain formulation components affect skin feel in various ways. Therefore, the tool facilitates the development of new products with specific sensory properties by making the process more direct, interactive and easier," Anna Howe, Applied Technology Manager, Nutrition & Care, Business Line Personal Care, Evonik Corporation, told Cosmetics Design.

The Sensory Kaleidoscope relies on a descriptive in-house panel to analyse the sensory properties of various formulations using emulsifiers from the Evonik portfolio.

The panellists are trained in detecting the correct sensory attributes for skin care applications, assessing the formulations’ feel upon application, and then five minutes after absorption has occurred.

This resulted in a statistical method that focused on two factors, which in turn makes it possible to graphically display the broad data in a simple, two-dimensional co-ordinate system that forms the basis of the tool with the aim of getting the sensory attributes just right.

"Skin feel is one of the main influencing factors for cosmetic purchases and loyalty to personal care products," Howe added.

"Sensory Kaleidoscope enables the development of formulations with the desired skin feel to turn current sensory trends directly into new products."

Getting the right results

Ultimately the tool demonstrates the complete spectrum of sensory attributes and allows formulators the chance to navigate this area using a far more precise and time-saving method that will result in the desired sensory effect.

"The Sensory Kaleidoscope demonstrates the wide range of sensory effects that can be achieved with state-of-the-art emulsifiers. Customers can select desired sensory areas and analyze them from different perspectives," said Howe.

The tool developers say that its initial focus is on O/W and W/O emulsifiers, such as the organo-modified silicone emulsifier ABIL Care XL 80 or the polyglyceryl-based ISOLAN GPS.

This has resulted in a spectrum of applications, from light sprays to rich creams, while the tool also displays different options for expanding the sensory range by changing certain formulation components.

Cosmetics Design - USA, (07/09/2016)